Torch Fired Enamel Beads

I know that some people coming to this blog are interested in torch-fired enamels, which is a process I use in my studio to create beautiful enameled beads and other jewelry components.

This video is a nice introduction to the process of torch-firing enamels on metal. The video features instructor Barbara Lewis of Painting with Fire Studio. As you can see, the setup is relatively simple. The trick is being able to handle all of the parts of the process and get a feel for it.

You can see more torch-fired pieces and read about my explorations with my enameling set-up here.

Here are a few of my torch-fired pieces:

This necklace incorporates enamel on copper pieces. I love the whimsical look of these!

The first pieces I made-- still learning! Head pins, domes and a filigree bead. I love the colors you can get with enameling.

"Love: gears and chains" polymer set into fine silver,
enameled copper, recycled sari silks

How to Make Big Beads from Polymer Clay

I love to make necklaces with big beads. Larger beads and pendants are a great way to combine a variety of techniques and play with color and texture. Big beads can be attention-grabbing, beautiful and bold. They're in style right now and many people are interested in creating them for their own pieces.

Here I'll show you how I make my big beads from start to finish.

In making larger polymer clay beads, two issues that come up are dealing with the heavier weight (for the largest beads) and not wanting to use up valuable clay for the inside of the bead, which no one will see anyway. There are simple solutions for these problems.

1. Create a "Dummy Bead" Inside the Bead

For medium size beads, I roll junk clay into balls. I keep a plastic bag of "junk clay" bits and pieces from other projects for this purpose. The recycled junk clay makes up most of the bulk of the large bead.

For really large beads, I use a crumpled tin foil core. The foil cure helps to ensure even, proper curing in the oven and cuts down on the weight. If you choose to use foil, the foil ball should be nice and tightly compacted.

2. Cover the Junk Clay or Foil With the Desired Colors

Cover the junk clay bead with the desired color of clay. To get a nice, smooth covering on the bead, roll out your desired colors into thin sheets which you can tear pieces from.

Watch that no air bubbles are left in the clay. If you do see them, slit into the bubble with your tissue blade and smooth to remove. Round off your beads in your palms to smooth.

3. Add Canes and Coverings to the Bead

Make up your canes and coverings to apply to your beads. Here I have made a mokume-gane to use in some of the beads. (Try a tutorial for polymer clay mokume-game here or here.)

Layers of caning and patterns have been applied and smoothed...	Not bad, but I feel they are lacking a bit of something.

Now I am satisfied!

4. Pierce, Cure and Sand

I carefully cure these in a calibrated oven for one hour.  The beads above have been pierced and cured and are ready for sanding.

Making big beads is a wonderful way to experiment with various techniques and color combinations. Enjoy creating! ❉

What's On My Bench (WOMB) This Week: Sanding and Finishing Polymer Earrings!

My workbench is where my polymer pieces are "born"- it's kind of like a womb for polymer earrings, cuffs and necklaces! Each polymer clay piece I create is carefully crafted, formed and then cured, but that's only part of the process. To create beautiful and professional polymer jewelry, the secret is in the finishing.


Today I'll take you through the steps for finishing polymer earrings, with photos from my studio.

My Four-Step Process for Finishing Polymer Clay Earrings...

1. Sanding the pieces and buffing
2. Creating the ear wires and attaching
3. Selecting Swarovski crystal embellishment for each pair
4. Assembling the earrings-- bringing all the pieces and details together!

It all starts with sanding...and more sanding...and more sanding. I work from 800 grit through 2500 grit wet/dry sandpaper in soapy water. The sudsy water helps to keep the sandpaper free of debris.

My hands get really sore from this but they are super clean-- and my pieces look great! If you have trouble with sore fingers from sanding, try wrapping your fingers with masking tape.

When I am satisfied that my pieces are sanded to perfection, it's time to begin assembling the earrings into their final form. Every set of earrings gets their own pair of unique, hand-formed sterling silver ear wires. I use 20 gauge half-hard round wire.

Here is a peek at a brand new shape I'm working on now for YIKES!Studio. The ear wires on these earrings have a hook on back. The shape and colors of this piece are organic and perfect for spring. I've chosen a light blue Swarovski dangle for the ear wire.

These red and black earrings needed a little extra on the ear wires. I wrapped blackened steel wire around the sterling silver. I love the way the black steel mimics the lines in the polymer.

Manipulating the steel wire around the ear wire.

Here I want to create a funky, messy looking knot of wire to attach the ear wire to. It starts with a loop from the blackened steel wire.

More wire bending

Finished wire work. I like a messy looking knot of wire. Its just more fun that way!

 


Finished!

I have been working on some photos for my new, soon-to-launch website! Stay tuned! ❉